A good rule to follow when trouble shooting is to make only one adjustment at a time. Locate the cause of failure or irregular operation by the process of elimination.

Loose or corroded battery terminals. Remove cable connections at battery and ground, clean and tighten securely.

Test the electrolyte in the battery. The specific gravity of a fully charged battery is 1.275. If the hydrometer reading is below 1.225, replace the battery with one fully charged.

To test the switches, remove the relay cover from the solenoid and observe whether the relay points close when the starter switch is closed. If the points close and the starting motor fails to operate, clean the relay points with 00 sandpaper and retest. If the points do not close, connect a jumper across the terminals of the starter switch. If the points do close, a faulty starter switch is indicated. Replace the starter switch. If the points do not close, replace the relay or the complete solenoid, as required.

STARTER PINION JAMS OR BINDS

Check to see that the nuts that hold the starter on the housing studs are tight. Loose attaching parts will cause misalignment of the starter pinion with the flywheel. Another cause may be incorrect pinion clearance. Too little clearance will permit the pinion to travel too far into the flywheel teeth, causing binding. Too much clearance will prevent full engagement of the pinion, causing the pinion to jam and chip the flywheel teeth.

Battery run down because of low charging rate, resulting from a loose generator belt or a faulty generator or generator regulator.

Corrosion at battery terminals or loose or damp connection at distributor, coil or spark plugs.

Fouling of spark plugs caused by incorrect carburetor adjustment. Clean and dry plugs and set gap at .035 inch. Adjust carburetor.

Clean both sets of points and examine for pitted and worn surfaces. The gap should be .015 to .018 inch. Replace worn points. When replacing the points, apply a small amount of MOPAR Cam Lubricant (Part No. 1473595) to the rubbing blocks.

Check spark at spark plugs to see if sufficient secondary voltage is reaching spark plugs.

Check fuel lines to see that fuel reaches carburetor. Remove fuel level sight plug from carburetor to inspect fuel level. Level should be at the lower edge of the sight plug opening.

Poor performance, such as lack of power, stalling, and missing at various speeds may be caused by an inferior grade of fuel; overheating, resulting from low oil level, insufficient liquid in cooling system, a loose fan belt or inoperative manifold heat control valve; ignition system difficulties; fuel system difficulties; worn or broken piston rings or lack of compression resulting from burned or pitted valves or valve seats.

FUEL DOES NOT REACH CARBURETOR

Clogged vent in fuel tank, dirty strainer element in fuel pump restrictions in fuel line, or worn fuel pump valve or ruptured diaphragm. Frozen water in gas line or fuel pump.

FUEL REACHES CARBURETOR, BUT DOES NOT REACH CYLINDERS

Dirt in carburetor channels, float needle valve sticking in valve seat, incorrect float level, or lack of sufficient vacuum in intake manifold.

CARBURETOR FLOODED

Inoperative automatic choke or carburetor float system.

FUEL PUMP NOT OPERATING

Loose fuel line fittings between filter and pump, leaking fuel pump valves or diaphragm assembly, or a weak or broken rocker arm spring. Fuel leaks at the fuel pump are an indication of loose fittings, worn or ruptured diaphragm or loose diaphragm mounting screws.

Primary circuit difficulties usually are caused by loose, broken, dirty or corroded connections, a grounded condenser, burned distributor contact points, incorrectly set points or sticking of the contact breaker arm. SECONDARY CIRCUIT

Secondary circuit difficulties are usually caused by fouled or broken spark plugs, incorrect spark plug gap, wrong type of spark plug, a cracked or wet distributor cap, a faulty coil or a broken distributor rotor contact spring. Repair or replace parts as required.

Dirt or oil on points, incorrect setting of points, a faulty coil or condenser, or high voltage in the system. Replace contact points and condenser.

Excessively high voltage, moisture formation, engine overheating, or an open circuit at soldered connection on primary studs. Replace coil.

CONDENSER FAILURE

Normal fatigue, excessive heat or moisture formation. Replace condenser.

Incorrect type of spark plug, spark plug not sufficiently tight, too much oil in carburetor air cleaner, incorrect carburetor adjustment, or inoperative automatic choke, incorrect ignition timing, water in combustion chamber, or oil leaking past piston rings. Clean spark plugs if dirty, replace if damaged. Adjust gap to .035 inch.

Broken piston ring or ring land, too tight or too loose piston pins, excessive clearance between pistons and bore, broken pistons or carbon deposits in cylinder head.

The hydraulic valve tappets are designed for quiet and efficient operation over an indefinite period of time and usually require no special attention. Oil pressure and oil level affect the operation of the tappets, since oil in the valve oil galleries acts as a compensating factor to maintain a zero clearance throughout the valve train. Low oil pressure or low oil level restricts flow of oil into the valve galleries, causing tappet noise. If the oil level in the crankcase is too high, the oil has a tendency to foam, thereby permitting air to enter the galleries and cause noise. Actual valve noises may be caused by wear of the rocker arms, worn valve guides, stems or broken valve springs.

Connecting rod noises are caused from low oil pressure, low oil level, thin or diluted oil, excessive bearing clearance, incorrectly fitted bearings or bearing caps. Inspect and correct oil level and pressure.

Low oil pressure, low oil level, thin or diluted oil, excessive bearing clearance or end play, eccentric or out-of-round journals or a sprung crankshaft. A loose flywheel or fluid drive may be mistaken for main bearing difficulty.

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